Hyderabadi Biryani or Hyderabadi Haleem or Hyderabadi Pearls — we cannot really single out a brand ambassador for the City of Nizams from these. While the Haleem and Biryani continue to entice taste buds from around the world, the glistening Hyderabadi pearl necklaces, bangles, and other ornaments have caught many an eye. Here, we will take a look at Hyderabad’s famed pearl industry and what makes them a much sought after item for jewellery boxes all over the world.  

Before we explore the Hyderabad pearl jewellery designs, take a crash course on Hyderabadi pearls to get up to date on their back story, variety and quality to look for while shopping Hyderabad pearl sets.

Hyderabad – The City of Pearls

For over 6000 years or more, pearls have adorned the necklines, wrists, and earlobes of the wealthy and royal in cultures and communities across the world. Do a quick search for Vintage Jewellery or Estate Jewellery, and you’ll come across pearls everywhere – by themselves and as fluid strands holding together other precious jewels like rubies, emeralds, and sapphires. To learn about how these much sought after lustrous bead made Hyderabad a centre for its market, we need to take a few steps back to the days of Nizams.

Interestingly, India’s major pearl production market is not Hyderabad – but Mumbai; plus India was traditionally never a pearl producing region. They why and how did the South Indian City earn the title – “City of Pearls”. All thanks to the Nizams who ruled the city for about 200 years and lived their life in opulence. Their wealthy lifestyle attracted many gemstone traders and jewellers from around the world – especially the Middle East, one of the major traditional centers of pearl trading.

However, documented Hyderabad pearl jewellery history starts with Ram Dutt Malji, who opened the first pearl trading shop in the city, in 1906. The Nizams appointed him as the royal jeweller. With pearl jewellery being a relatively new concept in the region, it only felt fair that the first of Hyderabadi pearl sets adorn the royal self. The pristine drops of nature’s magic mostly came from the Persian Gulf and soon captured the attention and desire of Hyderabad’s culture and lifestyle.

It is said that Ram Dutt Malji’s son Seth Kedarnathji Motiwale ran the first Hyderabadi Pearl Shop in Pathargatti. The Qutb Shahi Royals had a great affinity to the natural bead, and in fact even powered it up to use as a beauty enhancement. The royal patronage ensured a flourishing market the Hyderabadi Pearl sets. Craftsmen from all over the world flocked into the city to make exquisite Hyderabadi pearl jewellery designs including the Satlads (seven stranded pearl necklaces studded with precious stones), chandbalis (moon-shaped ear pieces), chokers, rassi (rope of pearls), chatai (mat like pear jewellery), waistbands, hathphool and more.

Hyderabadi Pearl Varieties

Pearls come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colours. There are world renowned pearls and pearl sets that have captured the jewellery lovers’ fancy with their unique qualities. The South Kensington Geological Museum in London houses a 1800 gm pearl, while banker Henry Pope owns a 450 Karat, 50.8 m long drop-shaped giant pearl called the ‘Pope Pearl’. The most commonly sought after white pearl is considered a symbol of purity and represents the moon. Pink, Pale yellow, grey and green are other colours popular in pearl jewellery.

The main category of pearls available in the market are Real and Cultured Pearls. The Hyderabad pearl market is sought after for the popular and less expensive cultured pearls. However, these are different from the duplicate ones you may find in a fancy jewellery shop. Natural/Cultured pearls come with a permanent lustre and colour that varies with quality. The Nizams of Hyderabad preferred unpolished saltwater pearls – in their purest and most natural uncut forms. Then there are the rare pearls that exhibit the highest quality of pearly beauty and perfection. Black Pearls are popular pick in this category as well.

Cultured pearls go through a process of grilling and polishing, after which they are grouped according to shape, sheen, lustre, colour etc. Cultured pearls are most commonly available and can be priced at about Rs 1000 per gram at its highest quality. These are used for setting in most gold jewellery and almost every Hyderabadi pearl jewelery shop trades them.

What’s a Good Hyderabad Pearl Jewellery Like

Shopping for Hyderabadi Pearls requires as much care and attention to detail as shopping for gold or diamond — after all you need nothing less than original high quality Hyderabad pearl jewellery designs to aid your elegant sophistication. Shape, colour, and touch can reveal a lot about the qualities of any pearl, provided you know what you are looking for.

Here is a quick checklist for picking out high quality Hyderabad pearls, anywhere in the world:

• In cultured pearls, look for a clear reflection, perfect rounded shape and smooth surface.
• But if you are looking for natural or rare pearls, look for the sheen and shape. No two natural pearls will be similar.
• In high quality unpolished real pearls, the nacre from the mollusk will be visible in bits and pieces.
• Do not rely on the fire test. While most fake pearls will be damaged by fire, so will some real ones.
• If a seller is trying to sell you on a pearl’s name rather than its physical qualities, you may be getting ripped off.
• Buy pearls from licensed, certified jewelers and pearl retailers. Buying pearls from street vendors or pawn shops can be a risky proposition.
• Rub them against your teeth with a side-to-side motion. A real pearl will usually have a slightly rough or gritty texture, while fake pearls made from glass or plastic will usually be almost perfectly smooth.
• Hold a few pearls in your fingers and gently rub them against each other. Real pearls will usually generate a little friction when they rub against each other.
• When two pearls rub against each other, their outer layers erode a small amount. If you notice a fine, powdery, white residue after rubbing your pearls, this is probably powdered nacre and a sign that the pearls are real.
• Hold the pearls in your hand and concentrate on the way they feel against your skin. Real pearls should feel noticeably cool for a few seconds before they warm up; Plastic pearls will be about room temperature and will warm up more quickly.
• Most real pearls feel somewhat heavy for their size.

Where to Buy Hyderabadi Moti Jewellery?

The availability of skilled labour and craftsmanship has made Hyderabad a thriving supplier of pearls. Patthargatti and Lad Bazaar are the oldest trading centres for Hyderabadi pearl jewellery sets and Hyderabad Pearls in the twin city. There are some affordable traders in Secunderabad as well. Krishna Pearls and Jewelers, Sri Ram Jewelers, Meena Jewelers, Kedarnath Motiwale Pearls, Mangatrai Pearls, Gems and Jewelers, and Sai Pearls and Gems Shop are some of the popular Hyderabad pearl jewelers you can make a visit to. Have a clear idea about your budget before you go shopping for Hyderabadi moti jewellery.This will help you identify a market or jeweller best suited for your need and likes.

Check out some more Pearl Jewellery

Now that you have had your crash course in Pearl varieties and Hyderabad Pearl jewellery, let’s move on to some stunning examples of craftsmanship.

Pearl Bangle

If you are looking for just a dash of pearly elegance, these freshwater cultured Hyderabad Pearl studded bangles are a must have in your kitty. Hyderabadi pearl jewellery is ideal for you if you do not like to go over the top with traditional attire and accessories. There are a variety of simple ornaments available in the Hyderabadi moti jewellery collections. And just about every pearl merchant and jeweler would have hundreds of discrete hyderabad pearl jewellery designs to choose from.

These pretty Hyderabadi pearls set of bangles can be paired up with a simple cotton saree for that classic desi look that makes every Indian woman shine. You can also use them on the ends of a set of colour bangles for a more vibrant look. Or simply mix them up with gold bangles for the elegant traditional Indian look.

Stylish Earring

Move over popular pearl studs – this is the new way to adorn your lobes with gleaming white pearls and a hint of gold. A gold ear cuff studded with swarovski crystals and pearls should be your next uber-stylish pick for the jewellery box. These Hyderabad pearl encrusted gold ear cuffs have a unique design that can be paired up with stylish evening wear dresses, a formal tunic or even sarees.

Pearl Anklets

Step out in style with these Hyderabad pearl fringed gold anklets, perfect for a festival or wedding celebrations. Diwali is just round the corner and so is the wedding season — now is a good time to invest in these Hyderabad pearl gold anklet. Wear them with a pretty salwar suit or a classy saree in heels. You could also work out a fusion look with cigarette pants and these pearl anklets on one leg.

Pearl Step Neckpiece

Hyderabad Jewellery for wedding on your mind? Here’s a stunning design to give some attention to. This Hyderabad pearls set of Satlad neckpiece and matching Hyderabad pearl jhumkas are sure to steal the spotlight on your wedding day. Thinking about trends? This is trendy as it can get – take the memory lane back to Bajirao Mastani or turn on the TV watch the promotional videos from Ae Dil Hai Mushkil. Watch what Aishwarya Rai and Anushka Sharma is sporting with their opulent attires and you can’t miss the elaborate pearl jewellery.

This one-piece wonder is ideal for the bride who likes to stay away from over the top styles. One Hyderabad pearls Satlad neckpiece is equivalent to layers of old jewellery. This Hyderabadi moti jewelley set is also encrusted with semi-precious rubies, besides the natural saltwater pearls. There’s even a bit of gold in there too. The Hyderabad pearls necklace will set off well against a wine red saree or lehenga. You could try on a sharara and gharara for the nizami style inspiration.

Hyderabad Pearl Necklace

Now if it is the temple jewellery style you are looking for, there is a wide variety of designs in Hyderabad pearl jewellery designs. This elegant one here for example features a statement square pendant strung on strand of pearls and semi-precious beaded stones. The bold pendant is matched with Hyderabad pearl jhumkas that are ethnic chic staples.

Pearl Necklace

Now, if you’re looking for an extravagant affair – say, a Jodha Akbar themed wedding. This Hyderabad pearl Ranihaar will catch your attention for sure. See how it can be paired up with gold and other colours with ease. A bunch of bangles and a jhoomar on your forehead – and you are ready to steal the much deserved spotlight at your wedding celebrations.

Pearl Choker

Hyderabad pearl jewellery designs for weddings also feature a lot of Chokers. This one here is a combo of Hyderabadi pearls, gold and green beads for contrast. You can wear it by itself or pair it up with a Ranihaar and other layers of Hyderabadi pearl necklace sets.

Simple Pearl Necklace

Forget the elaborate Hyderabad pearl jewellery designs for big celebrations. A simple strand of Hyderabadi pearls can also amp up your style in a jiffy. This three strand Hyderabad pearl necklace boast of the much prized black pearl. Imagine yourself in this and well-tailored formal dress at the next business event or office party.

Pearl and Emerald Earring

Speaking of formal evening parties and cocktail nights, these red carpet ready Hyderabad Pearl tassel earrings are a unique design to consider. You can wear them with a gorgeous silk saree or a structured black gown to steal all the attention.

There you go – now off to shopping. Keep an eye on the quality and make the right choices when selecting your dream Hyderabad Pearl Jewellery collection.