What are Pattu sarees?

Pattu sarees, or Kanchipuram sarees are the popular silk sarees that are largely created by the weavers in Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu. Kanchipuram is also called the Silk City, and the sarees are also known as Kanchivaram sarees. These sarees are exquisite, beautiful, and expensive, with the prices ranging from INR 2,500 to INR 1,00000. Pure mulberry silk is traditionally used to make Pattu sarees. Each Pattu saree is individually handcrafted, and that is one of the reasons why these sarees are premium priced.

They come in all colours and gorgeous motifs such as peacocks, parrots, swans, lions, mangoes, etc. They make for excellent gifts and purchases for special festivals and events such as weddings. Pattu sarees have always been the go-to choices for the wealthy, classy people ranging from entrepreneurs and socialites to celebrities.

Self Patterns on Pattu Sarees

Self design, or self-pattern is the method of using either the same colour as the saree or the colour closest to it to create rich patterns on the saree. The designing can be done in thread that is slightly lighter or slightly darker than the main colour of the saree. It makes the saree exquisite and beautiful while breaking the monotony of the Pattu saree. This is a popular technique used for sarees of various materials such as Georgette and cotton. Pattu sarees classically sport self-design on them.

Pattu sarees are often used in weddings and most people are afraid of really experimenting with bridal blouse designs when the saree is Pattu, since the saree itself is very festive with heavy work and designing. What most fail to figure is that there is still a wide scope for creativity with the designs for the blouses even when sarees such as the Pattu are considered. There are various blouse design patterns, that are elegant and they do not demean the grace of the saree itself. Such can be sought and used to increase the grace of the saree while maintaining one’s individuality.

Bridal Blouses

The elegance of blouses can be increased not only by stitching it to different cuts and patterns, but also by designing using extra work ranging from minimal to heavy, depending upon the desired effect. Various types of classic methods of bedazzling and designing of fabric are used, such as Zardosi, Bead and Springs, and Kundan.

Zardosi Work

‘Zari’ means Gold, and designs with golden thread are called Zardosi work. Intricate patterns are made with golden threads and various beads and stones are woven into the fabric. These designs are highly ornate and delicate. Again, these designs range from light work at corners, to heavy work that creates blouse design patterns all over the blouse. Zardosi work has historically been used to adorn the fabrics that the royalty wore. Owing to the use of real gold threads for the patterns, using Zardosi work is an expensive affair. Even today, bridal saree blouse designs include a variety of Zardosi work when designed and displayed by fashion designers. Today, various thread options for the Zardosi work have been created and widely used. Copper threads with gold coating or polish are widely used, making this design affordable to get done.

Bead and Spring Work

Beads and springs are used to weave into fabric to create patterns. This is used either with Zardosi work, or independently to beautify the bridal blouses. Various shapes and patterns are created using beads and spring to have a themed design on an otherwise dull blouse. These are used to accentuate drama and richness in the wedding blouse designs.

Kundan Work

Based on the classic antique jewellery patters, Kundan work on fabric consists of gemstones set into beautiful patterns set with gold foil that layers between the gemstone and the setting. Expensive and exquisite, Kundan work is adorned by the most glamorous of brides. Kundan work in blouse design patterns are so beautiful that they are like an ornament in it. For some designs, the Kundan work is enough to liven up the ensemble, and additional jewellery is unnecessary. Kundan work and Kundan jewellery originated in Jaipur in Rajasthan, and they date back to the Mughal era. Kundan work is worn by all of the Rajasthani royalty and it creates the most heavenly bride. Gemstones of various and vivid colours are used in perfect synchronization depicting ingenious designs.

The various patterns and bedazzling techniques are used in effective ways to liven up a blouse. The work can be used to add drama to the blouse in various measures. Right from light work on the neckline to heavy work all over the blouse, there are various ways of utilizing the embroidery work to the advantage of the sarees. For example,

1.  Work on the rims of the sleeve and the neckline. This could be light work or a thick band of work of any of the aforementioned options. This is suitable for those who prefer subtle wedding saree blouse designs.

2.  Work on the sleeves of the blouse. Most blouse designs for Pattu sarees consist of sleeves of various lengths. Work on the sleeve adds a lot of grace to the ensemble and not only to the blouse itself. Besides, sleeves of the blouse are completely visible in an ensemble including the saree, since most of the rest of the blouse gets covered.

3.  Work all over the blouse. One type of pattern work, or a combination of them is used to cover the entire area of the body of the blouse. Beautiful and intricate repetitive designs are created that match the rest of the saree to make the bridal saree blouse designs.

Various Blouse Styles

There are few established blouse styles that have been created and perfected over time by experts. These patterns form the basic template for blouse designing. The work is done upon the blouse stitched using custom measurements over the basic patterns.

Princess cut

A princess cut is when the neckline (or the back) of the blouse is broad, forming a large square or a rounded-square neckline at the front without any stitches. This is best suitable for large bust women, it flattens the bust to give a more uniform look. The princess cut blouse is the most basic pattern that is elegant, simple and staple on runways and a popular amongst celebrities.

Front and Back Button

Depending on the required results, the buttons of the wedding saree blouse designs can either be placed at the front or the back of the blouse. For functionality, it is growing very popular to use a zip at a side of the blouse so that it is invisible. The blouse’s look is not hindered by the hideous presence of buttons.

Sweetheart neck

When the neckline of the blouse is shaped like the top of a heart, it is called a sweetheart neckline. It is a wide and rather deep neckline that is highly feminine.

Dori Effect

A Dori, or a thick thread is used at the back of the blouse to keep it together. It helps in adding to the sex appeal of the blouse.

Cut Work

The blouse is cut around the embroidery around it making the blouse look beautiful. It gives the impression of the embroidery sustaining the design to create an ethereal look.

Backless Blouses

Traditionally accompanied by the dori, the backless blouse pattern means just that, and it makes the blouse seem sexy and alluring. It is a popular amongst celebrities and page-3 regulars alike.

Maharani Blouses

These are high-necked blouses with ornate embroidery around the neckline. This pattern, as the name suggests, was adorned by princesses earlier and is now a design most regular on the runway.

A combination of these designs is regularly used. One or more fabrics are combined to add special effects in the blouses. Net and lace are regularly used with other fabrics.

Working with Pattu sarees is a tricky affair, for two major reasons. One reason is that is a silk saree which means it is difficult to drape, heave and ornate. Secondly, Pattu sarees have heavy motifs and self-work all over them, making them eye-catching and laden with heavy work. Because of these reasons, anything over and above the elaborate look of the saree itself will cause the ensemble to look tacky. It is necessary to choose wisely when one looks to complement the Pattu sarees with specially crafted blouses.

Blouse Designs Suitable For Pattu Sarees

Zardosi Work

This bridal saree blouse contains short sleeves and a princess neckline. There is heavy Zardosi work with beads and spring all over the blouse. The golden beads make the blouse look regal. In all, it is a beautiful blouse that does not ruin the look for the saree.

Maharani Neckline

Here is the only proof you will need to justify calling that neckline the Maharani neckline. The high collar is split in the centre and runs deep. The ends of the sleeve and the neckline comprise of cutwork. The Maharani neckline blouse pattern is feminine as well as powerful, and it certainly makes the blouse standout in the ensemble. Sri Devi pulls of the rather daring blouse with much aplomb and comes out looking gorgeous. For those happy to experiment and prefer minimal jewellery, this is the perfect choice.

Sleeveless Blouse

For the more daring, there is always the option of going sleeveless. What Rani is wearing here is a deep princess cut neckline with a wide halter at the back. The blouse contains kundan work neckline on the printed contrast fabric used for the blouse. This is ideal for those with tones arms and a sculpted shoulder. It will be accompanies by an exposed back, usually deep.

With Doris

A contemporary twist to the classic princess neckline blouse, this one contains half sleeves and a huge princess neckline. The back is very deep with doris holding the blouse together. There is a thin lace border along the sleeves and the neck, while the buttons are at the back.

As seen below, the blouse sports a deep princess neckline, full-length sleeves and a very deep back held together by two doris, one at the back of the neck, and one at the lower back.  The border is present along the neckline and the back. The rest of the blouse is simple with no work on it.  It is a simple blouse that gives the illusion of being highly conservative.

Puff Sleeves

This blouse style is typically associated to Pattu sarees. The classic deep back accompanies the deep princess neck with dori at the back of the neck. Where this blouse differs is at the sleeves, which are a puff pattern that comes together towards the end, which is lined by a patterned lace. There is no work on the fabric since it is shiny silk.

Sweetheart Neckline

This blouse contains a wide set sweetheart neckline. The sleeves are micro-sleeves that are made of lace. The back is princess lined and not very deep. The rest of the blouse is simple and contains no embroidery work or whatsoever.

V Neck for Pattu saree

This blouse is anything but typical. The neckline is a very deep V-neck and the back is high. The sleeve consists of a different printed material and runs to the wrist. It is best worn by the really thin people and carried off best in functions, weddings and parties. Other embroidery is not used in this blouse pattern. The printed sleeve can be replaced by embroidered sleeves of the same material as the rest of the blouse if seen fit.

Silk Blouse

Mandira here is seen in an extremely simple blouse made up of a basic, un-printed silk fabric. High backed and with a deep princess cut, the sleeves on this blouse are small. It is highly elegant and gorgeous blouse design for silk saree.

Printed Silk Blouse

Because of her delicate shoulders, Vaani Kapoor pulls off this blouse with much elegance. On a basic saree, this printed silk blouse contains no ornate work and it has not been teamed with any jewellery whatsoever. The neck is very deep and princess cut. It is also very wide, showing off the clavicles. The sleeves are half, which means they reach the elbows.